I took the valve cover off. Easy.
I marked which tappets were lifting and which valves were lifting and found that all the tappets were lifting (phew!) and three of the valves were stuck in the up position despite good tappet movement.

After moving the cylinder to TDC and tapping the valve into the down position, I lifted the valve spring and washer and removed the valve keepers. (They are so tiny!)


Then I tried to lift the valve out of the out of its guide.
No dice. I tried prying it from the top, but stopped because I didn't want to scar the head. Then I tried to lever it up from the bottom using a screwdriver inserted between the gaps in the spring.


I don't recommend anyone trying this; the screwdriver slipped off the bottom of the valve and drove my hand into the metal bar the engine is mounted to. Actually, it wasn't my whole hand, just the last section of my pinky finger. I'm not certain if I actually blacked out, but when I regained awareness my hand was in the ice-filled cooler and I was trying to not wet my pants.
Right now the nail is of a shade somewhere between "purple mountains majesty" and the fur of McDonald's Grimace.
(I pause here to remind you I'm a sensitive English teacher fond of British nature poetry and not a mechanic. Yet.)
Questions:
How do I get the valve out now? Did I miss a step? Is there another component that has to come out before the valve will come free?
How do I know if the valve keepers are good?
How do I know if the tappets are good? I see they are available for sale on the Moyer Marine website, and the perfectionist in me wants to replace all the valves, tappets, valve keepers, but...is it necessary?
6 comments:
You didn't miss any steps. There is nothing holding the valve in the guide after the keepers are removed except for corrosion or rust between the stem and the guide. Valve keepers are almost always reusable unless they've suffered significant water damage in the past and the small ridge around their inside diameter wears thin in the subsequent cleaning process.
In terms of removal, I have had some success in gripping the top of the valve with a pair of vise grips to rotate the valve as I'm trying to pull it. In fact, it's usually helpful to rotate the valve back and forth in an effort to work some penetrating oil between the stem and guide prior to trying to simply force the valve upward.
Valves being very hard, it's frequently possible to grip the top of the valve quite aggressively with a pair of vise grips without damaging the valve itself. However, every now and then you will have to be prepared to sacrifice a valve in the process of removing it.
Been reading and enjoying your blog. I love the C+C Redwing and it was a boat that was on our shortlist. We ended up with a Tartan 30 with a good old A4 in it, which is giving us some challenges right now. Hope your engine fixes work out. The Moyer Marine site and forum is invaluable, as I see you are finding out. Look forward to your next post.
Geoff
KG,
If you go way back to May 2006 you will see that my uncle bought a Tartan 3000 when he sold this boat.
I love all of the Tartans. What year is yours?
Right now the nail is of a shade somewhere between "purple mountains majesty" and the fur of McDonald's Grimace.
(I pause here to remind you I'm a sensitive English teacher fond of British nature poetry and not a mechanic. Yet.)
What color is the fur of McDonald's Grimace (I am pretty sure that this allusion is not a reference to a fast food 'restaurant')? What novel, author and such?
Enjoying your blog and your photos a descriptions of the tasks you have undertaken with your A4 and C&C Redwing. My Tartan 27' is from 1967 and just about as old as your boat. We have been pretty fortunate with our A4 so far.
Keep up the good work with the help of the MM folks and forum.
Caleb,
Thanks!
Yeah, Grimace is that purple monster/thing that hangs out with the Hamburgler and the Fry Guys and Ronald himself. Purple.
I'm just waiting for the new valves to arrive and then I'll have an update...
nice post. ived been searching for articles about valves and actuators and your post really helps. thanks a lot for posting this.
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