Last year I was having an overheating problem so I changed the impeller in the water pump, did an acid flush (with vinegar), and then a high pressure flush. I pushed out a whole load of mud and slimy, nasty stuff. It was no wonder the poor thing was overheating. Not much water could have been moving through the water jacket (it's just that, channels inside the block that allow cooling water (GSB water) to pass around the pistons and co before it joins up with the exhaust). Here's a description of that project.
When I did that project I bought a whole bunch of hardware that allowed me to pump in the vinegar (put the water intake into a bucket filled with white vinegar) and attach a garden hose for a high pressure flush. I wasn't entirely satisfied with the way I had rigged all the parts, so I bought the kit from Moyer Marine. That long bronze tube sticking out of the side of the engine allows, or will allow, high pressure water (from a hose) to flush the block.
The next cool thing to look for is the addition of the new water jacket side plate bolts. Previously the water jacket side plate (an access plate to the water jacket) was held in by some rusty, old bolts that screwed into the block. Bad system. Unless you like raw water gushing all over the side of your engine. I don't so I added these bolts. They have a backing plate for every two bolts. Pretty sweet system.
And finally, at the top of the picture you can see the two new valves for cylinder 3. After I installed the new valves I adjusted the valve clearances (the gap between the bottom of the valve shaft and the tappet). They were so far out of adjustment I thought I was doing it wrong.
And you can see that I have started installing the studs for the head (the head for the engine, not the head head). These two are for the thermostat.
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